The Revival of Traditional Indian Skincare: Ubtan, Multani Mitti, and More
Back to Our Roots — Literally
The Indian skincare market is projected to reach Rs 30,000 crore by 2027. But amid the K-beauty and French pharmacy hype, a counter-movement is gaining strength: Indian women (and increasingly men) are returning to the ingredients their mothers and grandmothers swore by. And the results are speaking for themselves.
Ubtan: The Original Face Pack
A traditional ubtan combines besan (gram flour), haldi (turmeric), chandan (sandalwood), and milk or rose water. It gently exfoliates, brightens skin, and has been used as a pre-wedding beauty ritual for centuries. Modern dermatologists confirm that besan is a gentle, effective exfoliant suitable for most skin types. The proteins in gram flour help tighten pores, while turmeric provides anti-inflammatory benefits.
The classic bridal ubtan recipe: 2 tbsp besan, 1/2 tsp haldi, 1 tsp sandalwood powder, 2 tbsp raw milk, a pinch of saffron. Mix into a paste, apply for 15 minutes, scrub off gently with circular motions. Your skin will glow — this is the original Indian facial, and it costs under Rs 50.
Multani Mitti (Fuller's Earth)
This natural clay from Multan (now in Pakistan, but widely available across India) absorbs excess oil without stripping moisture. Perfect for oily and combination skin during Indian summers when humidity turns every face into an oil slick. Mix with rose water for a simple, effective face mask. Use once a week — daily use can over-dry. For dry skin types, add a teaspoon of honey to the mix for moisture balance.
Kumkumadi Tailam
This Ayurvedic face oil contains saffron, sandalwood, lotus, and vetiver in a sesame oil base. It's been used for centuries and is traditionally believed to brighten skin, reduce pigmentation, and promote an even complexion. Apply 4-5 drops at night and massage gently in upward strokes. Results show in 3-4 weeks of consistent use. Quality matters enormously here — a genuine kumkumadi tailam from a reputable Ayurvedic manufacturer (Kerala-based brands are generally reliable) will cost Rs 500-1,500 for 30ml.
Neem: India's Natural Antiseptic
Neem has been used in Indian households for everything from skincare to pest control for millennia. Neem leaves boiled in water make an antibacterial face wash. Neem oil (always diluted with a carrier oil) helps manage acne and fungal infections. Neem powder mixed with tulsi makes a powerful anti-acne pack. The antibacterial properties of neem are well-documented in scientific literature, making it one of the few traditional ingredients that even sceptics respect.
What Modern Science Says
- Turmeric curcumin — Proven anti-inflammatory and antioxidant. Studies show it reduces hyperpigmentation and evens skin tone with regular use
- Sandalwood — Clinical studies show it reduces skin inflammation and has mild photo-protective properties. Alpha-santalol, its active compound, is now used in premium Western skincare formulations
- Rose water — Natural toner with antibacterial properties. Maintains skin pH balance. Kannauj in Uttar Pradesh produces some of the world's finest rose water through traditional distillation
- Coconut oil — Excellent moisturiser for body (not face for acne-prone skin). Contains lauric acid, which is antimicrobial. Best used as a body oil or hair treatment
- Aloe vera — Proven wound healer, moisturiser, and anti-inflammatory agent. Grows easily in Indian balconies and provides fresh gel year-round
Building Your Desi Skincare Routine
Morning: Rose water toner, light moisturiser, sunscreen (non-negotiable in Indian sun). Evening: Cleanse with besan paste, apply kumkumadi tailam. Weekly: Multani mitti or ubtan face pack. This simple routine costs under Rs 500 per month and uses ingredients available at any kirana store or Ayurvedic shop.
The best skincare doesn't always come in expensive imported bottles with French names. Sometimes, it comes from your kitchen shelf — tested not by a marketing team, but by a thousand years of Indian women who knew exactly what worked.

